Tour of Carouge – Geneva's Funky Bohemian District

Carouge

When travelling, staying in hotels, and visiting major attractions, we don't always get to see urban neighbourhoods where most inhabitants of a major city like Geneva live. Given the chance to see such a neighbourhood, we'll jump at it.

Carouge lies in the southern part of Geneva, outside of the peninsula that makes up Old Geneva. It's a short tram ride (from the big train/tram/bus depot near our hotel) across both the Rhone & Avre rivers. 

We got to see where the clear blue waters of the Rhone (which drains Lake Geneva), and the silty grey-brown waters of the Avre (which take a more direct route from the Alps) meet at the tip of the peninsula.

Because of the neighbourhood's Savoie (i.e. Catholic) past, the buildings are less sober. It's delightfully funky with narrow, lantern-decorated streets, and 18th-century townhouses built close to the edge of the sidewalks.

Of course our first stop was for a spot of tea at the Betjeman & Barton tea shop (they even have stores in Canada), 

followed by a sampling of Mr & Mrs Renou's exquisite chocolate creations from the shop next door!

The main square was set up for the weekly farmer's market. Locals flitted about picking up fresh vegetables & fruits, flowers, and cheeses. The aromas of fresh baking were almost irresistible.

We toured the neighbourhood, peering into small shops whose owners had been there for decades.

With so many three- and four-storey buildings squeezed cheek-to-jowl lining the street, we commented on the lack of parks and play areas for kids. Our guide, Kristelle Gentina, led us down a narrow passageway to the rear of the building. Aha, most of the block shared big green spaces that were almost completely sheltered from the traffic noises of the busy street we had come from. 

There was even the big patio of one of Kristelle's favourite bistros.

The area has many fine Italian restaurants, and is generally renowned for its food scene. We stopped for lunch at Le Flacon, a trendy spot (& Kristelle's fav) where we could watch the kitchen staff prepare meals. We let Chef Yoann Caloué prepare a fabulous tasting menu for us.

  

We later learned that this small restaurant had a well-earned Michelin star!

Jean Kazès

There are no big box chain stores in Carouge. We paused in front of another of the many unique shops. This one appeared to be a tiny clock- and watchmaker’s workshop. We peered through the dusty window at a cluttered table piled with old machinery and instruments, clearly the domain of a traditional master of one of Switzerland’s most famous industries.

But looks can be deceiving. While Kristelle told us a bit about he shop and its owner, a jovial voice behind us wished us a very good morning. The 88-year-old Jean Kazès, who has worked in this location for the past 45 years, had arrived to open up his shop.

The modest Kazès, we soon learned, is a living legend whose work ranges from repaired watches to time-keeping murals and art installations so big that they decorate corporate lobbies around the world. A number of his famous works have won mention in the Guinness Book of Records.

Kazès surely captures the spirit of Carouge: welcoming, unpretentious, and completely amazing.