Cows of the Hérens Breed

Feeling the Bern – Day 1

It was our last morning in Lausanne. We had enjoyed a wonderful three days exploring the Swiss Riviera, and were sad to be leaving. After I had breakfast, my former high school classmate, Christie Stewart, came to our room for a few minutes. We chatted and gazed one last time at the lovely view from our balcony.

Christie walked with us to the Lausanne train station. Our time with her had passed so quickly – we definitely had been having fun! It took a 50^th Magee High School Reunion to connect again, and we were delighted to explore the beautiful part of Switzerland she now calls home.

At 9:50 a.m., we caught the train to Switzerland’s capital of Bern. We were impressed as ever by the massive, gleaming trains as they pulled up to the platform – right on schedule.

Our inter-city train sped through rolling green farmland dotted with herds of cows, patches of forest, and the occasional hilltop medieval châteaux. We arrived right on time at Bern’s big, busy train station.

We followed the instructions in our detailed itinerary to find a #21 bus (not too crowded at this hour). A short ride uphill through a wooded neighbourhood brought us to the elegant, funky jazz Unique Hotel Innere Enge, that dates back to 1865.

Innere Enge itself has been a popular tourist destination since the early 18^th century, and was once visited by Napoleon’s wife, Empress Josephine, in 1810. Today it boasts a jazz vibe in its décor and special events.

Our room wasn’t ready for us yet, but the friendly young lady at Reception gave us a voucher for welcome drinks in the hotel’s bar. We enjoyed our refreshments on the terrace of the hotel’s Brasserie Josephine (presumably named after Empress Josephine). 

The terrace has a commanding view overlooking the city.

At noon, we were charmed by all the church bells ringing at once.

Our room, #3, was on the ground level with a shaded garden view, and super-efficient air conditioning. 

It became available just as Livia Schönenberger, PR Manager for Bern Tourism, arrived to meet us.

We changed quickly, and joined Livia for lunch on the terrace. Being a very hot day, we all ordered the delicious “Bernese salad.”

Livia spoke to us about her city. She said that the Aare River is great for swimming!

It flows around the old city, the “life artery of the city.”  Bern’s old city is like a peninsula into the river. Floating on inner tubes is a popular summer pastime – people take the train upriver, and float back down with their clothes stashed in waterproof bags. There are no boats in Bern’s river, making it reasonably safe for swimming.

“Switzerland has the watches; Bern has the time!” This motto reflects a slower lifestyle. “We take the time for the good things in life. Even our dialect is slower, more musical.”

This year was the 31^st year of the International Jazz Festival, March through May. Our hotel is a centre of this festival, with its Jazz Club in the hotel basement. A big tent outside offers free entertainment, and attracts many students from around the world. There are also some festival venues downtown. The hotel has rooms devoted to famous jazz musicians, like Louis Armstrong, with busts and historic instruments in the hallways.

Since 2014, every hotel in Bern hands out free transit passes to its guests. Even B&Bs give free transit passes.

There are lots of cyclists in Bern and, over the past 30 years, more and more cycle paths .

Livia is originally from the Lucerne area, and came to Bern three years ago for her job. She had always wanted to live here; Bern is a busy cultural city, yet so very close to nature and hiking. Within the confederation, Bern was chosen as the capital after 1848 because it is central, close to the French cantons … and Zurich was already then considered too powerful!

Of special note, Toblerone chocolate confections are entirely made in Bern. Mr. Tobler’s original factory was near our hotel; the newer factory is just outside Bern. A little bear can be seen in the Toblerone logo.

Bears feature everywhere around Bern – they are much loved here. Bern is actually named for a bear that the city’s founder, Berthold V, Duke of Zähringen, killed in 1191. Bears appear on the city’s flag and coat-of-arms. 

Bears have been kept in the city as mascots since the early 16^th century. The historic Bear Pit (Bärengraben), which dates back to 1764, is now used only when the new Bear Park needs cleaning. The 65,000-square-foot Bear Park, which stretches all the way down to the riverside, dates to 2009.

When hibernation ends in the spring at the Bear Park, everyone is excited. There are lots of videos about the park on Youtube. 

Uphill from the Bear Park is a fine rose garden with views over the city, and a restaurant. A century ago, it was a cemetery.

Yes, it appeared we would be in for a busy couple of days in Bern. There is lots to see and explore.

After lunch, we would catch a #21 bus back downhill to the train station to meet our city guide for the afternoon, Beatrice Gyger Lang.